Sunday, August 31, 2008
If you will recall, some time ago, Arnaud suggested I keep a "Champagne Tracker" to prove that indeed, despite my plaints to the contrary, I do imbibe quite a non-negligeable amount of the bubble. Perhaps it is time to show you a spreadsheet or graph, in all its glory. Maybe I will soon. In any case, the CTracker was abuzz this week, as things to celebrate flooded through and those famous six atmospheres of contained pressure popped open into the ambient world.
NV Jacques Lassaigne "Vignes de Montgueux" - thanks to Alice for the delicious excuse to quaff this en terrasse on a sunny summer afternoon. It had more breadiness to it than the previous times I'd had it, less green apple acidity. A fine glass, and even finer conversation.
2003 Dufour Pinot Blanc - A curious champagne, to my taste. Made from Pinot Blanc, it has a discreet attack, yet is extremely persistent on the palate, with a deliciously pith-bitter finish. Somewhat like a Prosecco in its light body, though with more chalky depth.
NV Duval-Leroy Lady Rose (or is it Rosé?) - This gives what it purports to; a girlish, raspberry-and-strawberry confection; simple, bubbly, weirdly likeable, creamily dosaged: to file in the "guilty pleasure" category. Please tell no one I liked it. Please.
NV Fallet-Prévostat Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs - Once my "little grower that could," this unknown from Avize has disappointed me twice. On this opening, there was a gorgeous, vinous Avize nose: just what makes me weak-kneed. But on the palate, something lurked that was off, unclean, or overevolved. Drat. Drat. Drat.
1998 Jacques Selosse - Why can't something important enough to open Selosse happen every day? This bottle was so good I felt like my mind was going around in circles. I sat there with the glass in my hand and a smile of begoggled childishness on my lips. Full-bodied and vinous, with some honeyed overtones but not as oxidative as the Substance register, it was persistent, enveloping the palate. Not a huge amount of detail, but that's like asking foie gras to be crunchy. That's not its vocation. This wine's vocation was to provoke minor rapture. Which isn't too bad, now, is it?